| In a mature aquarium, both types of bacteria live in filter media, gravel and clean rocks but, in a new aquarium (or as a result of over-zealous cleaning of the filter media) the bacteria can be killed, thus destroying the natural balance. Only give the filter media a quick rinse in luke-warm dechlorinated water or discarded water from the aquarium. Water taken directly from the domestic supply will contain chlorine which may kill many of the beneficial bacteria. |
| Test kits are available to check the levels of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate - typical examples are shown on the right. The significance of the ammonia test depends on the water's pH value and temperature as indicated in the following table. |
|
| Maximum allowable Ammonia levels in mg/litre | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Water Temp (ºC) | pH value | |||||
| 6.5 | 7.0 | 7.5 | 8.0 | 8.5 | 9.0 | |
| 5 | 50 | 16.7 | 5.1 | 1.6 | 0.5 | 0.2 |
| 10 | 33.3 | 10.5 | 3.4 | 1.1 | 0.4 | 0.1 |
| 15 | 22.2 | 7.4 | 2.3 | 0.7 | 0.3 | 0.09 |
| 20 | 15.4 | 5.0 | 1.6 | 0.5 | 0.2 | 0.07 |
| 25 | 11.1 | 3.6 | 1.2 | 0.4 | 0.1 | 0.05 |
For the Nitrite test, levels below 0.1 mg/litre are acceptable for all species of fish, levels between 0.1 and 0.25 mg/litre indicate that there may be an excess of un-eaten food or decaying vegatation but is still acceptable to all but the most sensitive fish. 0.25 to 0.5 mg/litre is becoming unacceptable and above 0.5 mg/litre, immediate action should be taken to correct the level.
For high levels of ammonia and/or nitrite, the best solution is to carry out two 30% water changes with about 8 hours between them followed by a further 30% water change after another 12 hours.
The underlying cause of the high level(s) should be found and a careful check kept each day for a week. Thereafter, regular checks and 10% water changes about once every two weeks should be ok to take care of any possible build up of nitrate levels.